XJ Topic FAQ List $Revision: 1.34 $ $Date: 2004/06/22 21:31:54 $ This document is meant to record many of the Frequently Asked Questions of the XJ-Owners Mailing List. The litigious nature of (especially US) society compels me to point out that neither I (the FAQ list maintainer) nor the members of XJ-Owners Mailing List take responsibility for any thing bad that happens as a consequence of following any of the advice here. As always, YMMV. Contributions to this list are welcome and should (ideally) consist of either additional info for, or corrections to existing questions, or new questions with answers. Jim Miller * What is the XJ-Owners Mailing List? * Where is the archive for the XJ-Owners Mailing List? / Why isn't there an archive for the list? * What is the XJ-Owners Page? * What is Seafoam? * Where can I get Seafoam? * What is the side stand switch? How do I disable it? * What grade gas should I use in my XJ? * What type of oil should I use in my XJ? * What tires should I use on my XJ? * Where should I buy tires? / How do I get them mounted? * Is "fork oil" the same as regular engine oil? * Why is fork oil a funny color? * What sparkplugs should I use in XJ? * What is the XJ Relay? * What is 'The Bag'? * What is the XJ CD and where can I get it? * How do I clean my carburetors? * How do I deal with a rusty gas tank? * What is YICS? * I'm having electrical problems... * Can I add driving lights, or other electrical accessories? * Can I fix my TCI unit (Cold Solder Joints)? * Where can I get parts/accessories? * What does SWMBO/YMMV/tafn/etc mean? * Where can I get a back rest for my (usually) Maxim 700? * Where can I get a (left|right) side cover for my Maxim? * What about powdercoating? * What/Where is the second (middle gear) oil drain plug? * Is there a way to add a 6th gear or change the 5th gear to an overdrive? * What is a Colortune? * Do I need the Motorcycle specific Colortune? * Can I fix my cracked carb boots? * What are the three settings on my fuel petcock for? Which one should I be using? * How do I get the bike up on the center stand? * How do I replace my sparkplug wires? ======================== * What is the XJ-Owners Mailing List? From the XJ-Owners Mailing List Frequently Asked Questions: The XJ-Owners mailing list is for discussion, general chatter, chaos, ride reports and exchange of information generally pertaining to Yamaha XJ motorcycles. Anyone is welcome to subscribe. The list is not moderated, and is intended for socializing among those with a common interest. Topics range from the useful (maintenance tips) to the questionable (snow tire availability?!?) and everything in between. Subscribers experience levels range from the absolute beginner to the old and grey, and so far have exchanged a lot of useful info. Please, do not post any unsolicited advertisements, commercial posts, or SPAM. The full FAQ for the mail list is available at: http://www.micapeak.com/lists/XJ-OWNERS/FAQ * Where is the archive for the XJ-Owners Mailing List? Why isn't there an archive for the list? There isn't one. It's been discussed many times. There are issues with email harvesters and the need to mask/remove addresses, but most importantly, it's against Micapeak's Policy. From: http://www.micapeak.com/mailinglists/policy-archives.html It is our policy not to give permission for anyone to archive micapeak.com mailing lists off-site via commercial, for-profit or unaffiliated other services. Several listowners maintain their own archives of their own mailing lists; we have no problem with that. But we feel it is unfair and inappropriate to do so in other cases. So, by Micapeak policy, only on the listowner (currently Jeff Mountin) may archive the list (or bless someone else's archive); and he chooses not to do so. But this doesn't really bother us too much--we have a strong core of members who are happy to answer questions and it encourages discussion. Similarly, why isn't there a web forum interface?/Why isn't the list integrated with one or more of the existing XJ web forums? Partially because of the restrictions listed above, partially because it's a lot of work to do it right and partially because of sheer inertia. Most listizens are happy with the list as it is and suggestions to the effect "let's move the whole thing somewhere else" are likely to be ignored. * What is the XJ-Owners Page? The XJ-Owners Page (which is not the same as the XJ-Owners Mailing List) is another excellent source of XJ information. It is maintained by Brian Evans and can be found at: http://www.xjowners.com/ Unfortunately, it does not appear to have been updated in a long time. * What is Seafoam? "Seafoam Auto-Marine Motor Tune-up" is a gas/oil additive that helps to clean the carbs and engine and enhance performance. It is also rumored to promote hair growth and virility. :-) Jim W. Smith writes: Seafoam is a "run-through" type carb/fuel system cleaner. It has the added benefits of removing carbon deposits in the head (if used in high concentration) and cleaning out sludge in the crank case if added to the oil. There's instructions on the can for different treatments. Normal procedure for a motorcycle: Add 1/3 can to a full tank of gas and ride the he!! out of it. A second treatment may be necessary - but not usually. Just before oil change, add 2 or 3 fl oz to the crank case and warm up the motor. Don't put miles on it in this condition - you've just thinned out the oil significantly. With the oil thinned and warmed up, drain it. I've done this for every oil change on my xj650j maxim and the oil comes out as clear as can be now - although the first few times it looked terrible with all the junk that came out with it. Seafoam will preserve your gas over the winter months better than Stabil - just add 1/2 fl oz per gallon. The local Yamaha dealer uses Seafoam to "moth ball" their cold storage bikes. The motor is fogged, carbs drained and re-filled with Seafoam, gas tank full with 100 to 1 gas to Seafoam mix. The battery is removed too. When they pull the bike out, all they have to do is drain the carbs and install the battery. They tell me they've done this for many years with no problems. In fact, they say the bikes usually run better coming out of cold storage than they did going in. This stuff works well in automobile engines, too. Older cars that have sat for a while get the most benefit from treatment. Don't take my word for all of this, though. Go get some and try it for yourself. No - I don't work for them and I have nothing to gain here other than helping others find something that works really great. jimmy xj650j Others have recommended pouring as much as a half can in with a near empty tank, letting it idle for 5-10 minutes and then leaving it in over night. After adding more gas, again run the engine for 5-10 minutes before riding -- that strong a Seafoam concentration will not run the same as gas. Some listers have recommended Chevron Techron, Marvel Mystery Oil and STP Gas Treatment. The history of Seafoam on XJ-Owners: From: "Jim W. Smith" To: Yamaha XJ owners discussion Subject: Re: Who use Seafoam first Kenny Lam asked: > This question came up while Brad and I were tuning the bike, Who > introduced Seafoam to this list? Anyone remember? Alan Heter added: > So as far as I can tell it was Smitty or jschmidt recomending to > John Vitamvas in Digest 984 on Thursday February 24, 2000. Can > anyone come up with an earlier date? Gather 'round for the Seafoam story! I joined the list in April 1998. At that time the recommended carb "elixir" on the list was Chevron Techron. I had used Seafoam before on small engines and I knew it worked. It was Smitty, in the late spring of 1998, who went against the "flow" and posted that he felt Seafoam was superior to Techron. I chimed in with my support amid torrid flames of disagreement from many others on the list. I even went out and bought some Techron and tried it in an old Briggs & Stratton I was working on - it didn't do a thing. This debate went on for several days and some actually went out and bought Seafoam and tried it. Over time a few posts came in praising the new "miracle in a can" called Seafoam. Unfortunately, many had a hard time finding the stuff and remained unconvinced. I don't know who is still around that was active on the list back then. Seems like one by one they're fading away... Woovis, Smitty, Rich DeZago, and Carlton... I just lurk in digest mode now due to lack of time - and emerge occasionally to give an opinion. Or - to give a little history... ;) jimmy xj650j * Where can I get Seafoam? Seafoam has been spotted in the US at Napa, O'Reillys, Farm & Fleet and Fleet-Farm as well as some outboard motor dealers. Wayne (last name unknown) and Dwayne Verhey report that Seafoam is now becoming available at a few places in Canada. As of this writing (May 12, 2004), this is breaking news, so I don't have a list of Canadian stores carrying it yet. Wayne suggests Canadians check for it online at: http://www.baseautovalue.com/ Todd Hildebrand points out Seafoam now has a website: http://www.seafoamsales.com http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm Steve Solomon writes: For everyone complaining that they cannot find Seafoam locally (including me), there is a company out of Minneapolis, Mn., that sells Seafoam on-line, along with other related products. The name of the company is: USA Hardware. Their web address is: usahardware.com . Their phone number is: (763)-417-0094. They are selling Seafoam for $6.29 a can + shipping. Now, I haven't bought anything from them YET, so I cannot give a positive or a negative review of this company. In other words, buy at your own risk! [As of May 28, 01, http://www.usahardware.com lists Seafoam as "Sea Foam Moter Tune-up" (note space in Seafoam). Their search engine isn't up to the task of finding it. I found it going to "Automotive", then "Oil & Gas Additives". Catalog Code: 20-903559] Michael Brambley writes: I found SeaFoam on the web available from Montana Jack's ATV Outpost & Supply for $4.99 plus shipping. A case of 24 is $3.99 a can plus shipping. Their URL is: http://www.montanajacks.com/enter.html. [Montana Jack's has it under the name Seafoam *and* "SeaFoam - Fuel Stabilizer & Treatment". Search for Seafoam. They also have a picture of the can.] * What is the side stand switch? How do I disable it? XJs have a safety switch on the side stand. You cannot start the motorcycle with the side stand down and the bike in gear. Equally, trying to put it in gear with the stand down will kill the motor. Some listizens like this and some don't. In general, we've all agreed to disagree about it. :-) However, if you do want to disable it for some reason, just tie the two wires to the switch together. Greg Martin adds: "Note that not ALL XJ's have this - for example my 81 Maxim doesn't have it." * What grade gas should I use in my XJ? The best answer is "Use whatever works best for you." Most listizens report best results using 87 octane (or whatever the local lowest grade is). You do *not* need to use lead replacement additives even if your bike originally called for leaded gas. Greg Martin writes: "As for octane, most going knowledge says they were built for low octane fuel, so unless you're having trouble with knocking or pinging you should stick with what it was made for." Regarding leaded fuel, Jeff "The Mountin Man" elucidates: There is no reason to use a lead additive and [I] consider the "leaded fuel" in the manuals to be a typo. Lead in the fuel of old was for 2 reasons. First to increase the octane rating and secondly to cushion the valves. The first is covered by adjusting the formulation and second became unnecessary when valve seats were either hardened or the use of press-in valve seats. The accumulation of deposits from lead or lead substitutes on the valves is not desirable, nor will it help the performance or wear of the engine. The reverse is more likely to be true than a beneficial or no effect. Don't bother wasting money on unnecessary lead additives. * What type of oil should I use in my XJ? Again, "Use whatever works best for you." The different types discussed (roughly in ascending order of cost) are: Plain fossil oil Plain synthetic-blend oil Motorcycle-specific fossil oil Motorcycle-specific synthetic-blend oil Plain synthetic oil Motorcycle-specific synthetic oil Most listizens agree (and several of the motorcycle makers also state) that the latest automotive grade, SJ, in plain fossil oil is not as good for motorcycles. Many listizens believe that the motorcycle-specific oils are just a gimmick, while others prefer them. The biggest discussion is synthetic vs fossil. Plain synthetic oil is comparable in price to the motorcycle-specific oils and, according to many respected listizens, significantly better. There are also occasional reports of additional clutch slip or leaking with synthetic oil. And so we come back around to "Use whatever works best for you." As for weights, 20w40 is recommended for temperatures 40F/5C and above. Those who use synthetic oil recommended 15w50 year round. 10w30 is recommended only for colder weather when temperatures will stay below 60F/15C. Jeff "The Mountin Man" Mountin writes: > Ok, been asked a million times probably, but I want to know > what the book says about what type of oil to use. The brand > isn't that important, just want to know what type. Hold it, you ask what the book says and then finish up with a "good old mineral oil" and open the door for synthetics? So you don't care the brand. Tests show it doesn't matter much other than to avoid therapy (ie it makes you feel good). You could go with 20w-40 Yamalube at $4/qt, fine. For the same amount you can go synthetic. Test results show Amsoil is at the top and it *far* exceeds the specifications required. It also does well, as any synthetic should over time and more importantly, distance. Mobil1 15w-50 is the most popular, though with the new "SuperSyn" vs the old (Tri-Syn) one person (Dwayne) has found the clutch to slip. I'm debating on whether to change my oil before it breaks down and start over to see if the same problem happens or keep going. Guess if it start over should see if I can rack up serious miles this year or at least pass the 6000 or my current change and still clean looking Mobil1 of the "Tri-Syn" vintage. Surely should it slip would be changing clutch springs to answer my long standing question/theory (again Dwayne's are new). Other brands work as well and there are motorcycle specific versions that eliminate the clip slip issue, which isn't usually the case. In some areas like around here the MC Mobil1 runs about $8/qt, while others have found it be the same as the automotive version. Some use a semi-synthetic, as I used to, with good results. Won't last near as long as pure synthetic oil, but one might squeeze out a few more miles or just stay with the 3000 mile (4800 km) change interval and have warm fuzzies. Some say 2000 miles (3200 km). Main point is changing it regularly and I recommend doing so when the shifting grows clunky. Many times I never reached 3000 miles before changing except with Mobil1 and after 6000 miles shifting is still smoother than with a fresh batch of mineral or semi-synthetic oil (not to mention still lighter than after a few hundred miles). Most any automotive oil will work. However, there might be more issues with the widespread distribution of oils with the new SL rating. A known issue is with any oil that has the "Energy Conserving" qualification (usually in the SAE/API starburst with the rating and weight) is pretty much guaranteed to slip and might even cause the starter clutch to slip, which is very rare and usually a sign of neglect (sometimes cured with SeaFoam). Now with all this talk of slipping the clutch there still isn't a need to go with a higher priced MC specific oil One can use 15w-40 diesel oil such as Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella. If anyone says that MC specific oil is better or more pure (heard that myself), ask for data sheets with the test results. Make sure they were done by a third party and conform to the SAE, API, or ASTM methods and specifications. I'm familiar with some of the latter, though I did more with fuel (low-grade, no lead - mid grade if you want warm fuzzies). There are a couple last things to consider. With old seals and gaskets there is the potential for some oil seepage. It could be just the seals and gaskets or the fact the crud buggers that were holding hands are no longer acting as a seal. Regardless, it does happen and is usually minor. With synthetic oil one can extend the change interval. However, just how far is up to the individual. I suggest going by the shifting, which as I mentioned was smoother. How smooth you ask. Well, last fall someone asked just how fast one could be going and still shift down into first gear. By the manual (owners, not service) it's supposed be at 20 km/h (12.5 mph). Then for deceleration it says the same thing for all gears. Doh! Bad idea, one should be in the right gear in the event there is a need to accelerate out of a bad spot, but I digress. About a week or so after it was asked I though to take a quick glance and found mine went in no problem at more than 30 mph (48 km/h) and more like about 35 mph (56 km/h). Redline in first is 48 mph (77 km/h). Generally around 15 mph (24 km/h) is where most will drop down. Already knew that downshifting grew much more smoother with synthetic, but am sure it would have required a stomp to hit first at that speed with dino oil. Suggest a quick flick of the wrist, which is habit for me except when grabbing serious front brake, and starting out a lower speeds should anyone care to try. No stomping either. Save that for must-do occasions. Back to oil. Along with the extended interval one might want to consider a better filter. The standard pleated paper filter such as the OEM, Fram, Purolator, etc are all pretty much the same. Only 2 with a better medium than pleated paper are from Amsoil (Super Duty) and PerForm: http://www.perf-form.com/filters/fitment.htm The PerForm J-505 is the equivalent to the CH6003 and costs $4.70. The Amsoil SMF-105 is $5.45. Anyone could use a better filter, but when extending the change interval it might be a good idea to change the filter at one or several points. I'm planning on doing at least that should I not give the "SuperSyn" Mobil1 a try. While the manual suggests a filter change every other oil change, it should be done every change. Only when using a synthetic and going for a long interval one should go by the manual or my guess is I might need one by 10,000 miles considering how clear it is. Mind the only color and transparency tests in the ASTM manual I used were for fuels. While it's a decent method, it doesn't mean there isn't any contamination. Consider that a legal blurb and you are on your own when extending. Those that ride in either serious cold (sub-freezing) or over wide ranges of temperatures are better served by synthetic oil. Just compare how quickly you can pour (no squeezing the bottle!) a quart of Mobil1 15w-50 compared to 0w-30 mineral oil that have spent the night in the freezer (about how damn cold it is right now). By the weights the latter should flow better. Not much of a competition really. At higher temps the synthetic will also not break down as much and won't thin out as much with the flow being more consistent over a much wider temperature range. Overall the most important thing to change your oil! Regularly! No forgetting, so if the mileage is close to being even divisible by 3000, then it's time. Even using the best oil doesn't mean anything should it degrade into a brown slurry and if the oil filter ends up bypassing, then essentially it doesn't exist. Last we must not forget the final drive oil. No reason not to use at least a semi-synthetic such as Valvoline 80w-90. Will result in a quieter and cooler running unit with less drag. Will take readings with a thermocouple this year comparing the several year old semi-syn to fresh dino and finally some Mobil1. Will say the dino results in a too-hot-to-touch (other than very briefly) housing compared to a can-hold-my-hand-on-it difference. Should also last at least 3 times longer from my observations (qualitative again), then with it running significantly cooler it only makes sense. While ambient air temperature doesn't matter much, will try to test the dino oil on a day *cooler* than with the old (3 season) semi-syn and on a day warmer than either of those. Just to be fair. 8-) * What tires should I use on my XJ? (Note that prices may not be accurate anymore.) Jeff "The Mountin Man" Mountin writes: I'll throw in my tire round-up from 3/4/2002..... What do you consider factors: cost wear traction Now you can only pick 2 of 3, though it is a bit more complex than that and must ask if you are a mostly tame rider or like to turn and burn more. Also riding in the wet should make traction more of a factor, which usually costs more. One can also think of good tires as a form of insurance, even if you don't ride hard. Would rather avoid an accident than have a tire break free and lose control. This is more of a factor in the wet and matters little when one hits a grease slick or spilled diesel fuel. Then a tire that won't grab suddenly after sliding does help avoid a high side. Yes, one could "what-if" the choices to death. Surely you and others have read my other posts on the is recently, which will save me some typing and will summarize a bit more and leave details to others. Will throw in some prices later. Bridgestone's BT45 might be the most popular on the list. Going with the V vs the H rated version will gain some traction (this is the case in general for any brand/model of tire) at a slight loss in mileage for $3 more. One person mentioned the Michelin 50E (or the older A50 version) and M50 did better than the BT45's with those that have switched (not sure if any here have tried them or can comment/compare), yet they do cost a bit more. Those looking for excellent traction usually opt for Metzeler ME33/ME55A combo, Dunlop K591's, or the Bridgestone BT45's. Now the ME55A is replaced by the ME550 and the K591 is replaced by the GT501 (unless you want HD lettering), but there has been little feedback on either. Could say that wear and traction with an indifference to cost then the Metzeler ME880 is the tire. Never used the ME88, but though the tread pattern wasn't best for rain grooves (yea, another factor to consider). When one's budget is tight then Kenda Challenger's, Bridgestone's S11 Spitfire, or rock bottom Cheng Shin's Hi-Max (C906/C907). Interestingly the tread patten for the front Hi-Max is similar to the ME33. While mentioning CS should also say that the Marquis is to be avoided. Don't recall offhand if the Barracuda has been mentioned in the past. Anyone? Avon was mentioned already and a few others use them. Most are in the UK or Europe. From wear to traction they have the Roadrunner (AM20/AM21), Venom X, Super Venom (AM18/AM20). Seems many are not specific when mentioning Avon's when I checked back. It appears that Metzeler is dropping the ME99A (fits between the ME880 and ME55A/ME550) and ME77 Now for some pricing. Not everyone uses the same sizes and so there might be some variations in cost, which may or may not be a factor. In my case the size used for the ME33 does make a difference.... $81.95 Metzeler ME550 130/90V16 Rear Tire $111.95 Metzeler ME55A Metronic 130/90V16 Rear Tire Note: No longer listed, but the ME550 price has not changed since both were listed. $75.95 Metzeler ME880 100/90H19 Front Tire $96.95 Metzeler ME880 130/90HB16 Rear Tire $89.95 Metzeler ME33 Laser 325H19 Front Tire $77.95 Metzeler ME33 Laser 325V19 Front Tire $93.95 Metzeler ME33 Laser 110/90V19 Front Tire $85.95 Metzeler ME33 Laser 350H19 Front Tire $93.95 Metzeler ME33 Laser 350V19 Front Tire Note: The 110/90 is a tight fit (ask Brad) and the 350H19 may or may not. The 325V19 costs less and is what I use. $71.95 Dunlop GT501 57V 100/90V19 Front Tire $82.95 Dunlop GT501 67V 130/90VB16 Rear Tire $79.95 Bridgestone BT45H 130/90H16 Rear Tire $70.95 Bridgestone BT45V 100/90V19 Front Tire $82.95 Bridgestone BT45V 130/90V16 Rear Tire Note: No "H" rated for front. $54.95 Bridgestone S11 100/90H19 Front Tire $65.95 Bridgestone S11 130/90H16 Rear Tire $78.95 Michelin Macadam 50E 100/90V19 Front Tire $95.95 Michelin Macadam M50 130/90V16 Rear Tire Comment: Curious on the wear of the M50 rear. A bit pricey if it wears the same as tires with similar traction. The next 3 brands are on my tire price list for the first time. Figure they get mentioned enough and some are on a budget, so might as well. (no size available for the AM20 front) $93.95 Avon AM21 Roadrunner 130/90H16 Rear Tire $72.95 Avon Venom X 100/90H19 Front Tire $98.95 Avon Venom X MT90H16 Rear Tire $75.95 Avon AM18 Super Venom 100/90V19 Front/Rear Tire $88.95 Avon AM18 Super Venom 130/90V16 Rear Tire $35.95 Kenda K657 Sport Challenger 100/90H19 Front Tire $43.95 Kenda K657 Sport Challenger 130/90H16 Rear Tire Note: Tread pattern is an old Bridgestone design. $38.95 Kenda K671 100/90H19 Front Tire $44.95 Kenda K671 130/90H16 Rear Tire Comment: The pattern for the front is similar to the Michelin and is more modern than the K657. $34.95 Cheng Shin C906 Himax 100/90H19 Tubeless Front Tire $44.95 Cheng Shin C907 Himax 130/90H16 Rear Tire In some cases the blank may just be an inventory gap. Didn't feel like checking all the sites to verify. Another thing to note is that a front typically will outlast the rear by a 2:1 ratio. Then I did toast 3 ME55A's to one ME33 and some a 1.5:1 ratio. Paying a bit more for the front makes a lot of sense, as most of the "more preferred" ones will last 10-20K miles. Unless you ride a lot, chances are the front will dry rot before being worn down with a longer lasting tire, so a bit more grip is worth the wear. Then I'm not fond of changing both at the same time. Either one has to be well broken in my view. Similarly, some prefer a better wearing rear and then you have a better cost-per-mile from release to cords. Of course you should take it easy during break-in to scuff of the release compound and wearing to the cords is not the best, even if I have been there and so some burn outs and then replace it the next day. Will say it would be nice to hear back on the ME550 and if anyone can fit one, the ME330. They are priced close to the Dunlop GT501 and Bridgestone BT45. Someone mentioned the Avon's were expensive in their area, but was surprised. Addendum, 4/15/2004 also from Jeff: Not added yet would be tires from Maxxis (aka Cheng Shin). From what I've read they might be quite decent tires. However, the only reviews I've seen were for sporties (ie SuperMaxx). Did some spot checking and the V1 looks interesting. Priced about 50% more than the ProMaxx they are still less than most leading brands by $10-20 or more and should be of similar quality. Only say that due to tire technology has been improving rapidly and some dated tires, like the K627, will never be listed in the round-up. I supposed the K627 would be an OK rear. The ProMaxx in that size is $57.95 placing higher than the Kenda 671 and below the Bridgestone S11 for price for the more budget oriented. Can attest to the improvement of a newer tire design. Going from the ME55A, which was about 10 years old, to the ME550 would be an example. It also was priced more in line with other manufacturers offerings in the same category. * Where should I buy tires? / How do I get them mounted? If you don't want to buy from your local shop/dealer, you can often get tires cheaper online. The following have been recommended by different listizens: http://www.accwhse.com/ http://www.tireexpress.com/ http://www.discountmotorcycletire.com However, if you order tires you still need to get them mounted. Many shops will mount tires cheaply(US$15-US$30) when you bring in the tire and the rim (having them remove the wheel also will get expensive), but some will refuse to mount tires purchased elsewhere. Or you can mount them yourself. One very detailed site is: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html * Is "fork oil" the same as regular engine oil? The Haynes manual, and even some of the Yamaha manuals, mention using 10w30 motor oil in the forks so are they the same? Not really. The short answer is that you're better off using special purpose fork oil in the forks if you can. You can use ATF, gear oil or straight weight engine oil, but real fork oil is going to work better. Jeff "The Mountin Man" Mountin writes the long answer :-) : Not even close. An MC specific oil might be re-labeled automotive oil with a slight change in the additives. Fork oil has a much different purpose. Have to wonder why they even mention such a thing. Chalk up another problem with Haynes. One problem with using 10w30 is the fact it's a base stock of 10 with "thickeners" for the 30 part. The base is fine, but thickeners are why Jeff Greffe doesn't like the ride. Gear oils are also different, which I only mention since 75w gear oil has about the same viscosity as 10wt engine oil. Sounds confusing, but the reason for the number differences is so you *do not* confuse engine oil with gear oil. Viscosity matters a lot with fork oil or hydraulic fluid. Well, you don't want your engine oil thinning out too much at high temps and like molasses at low temps, but fork oil covers a more narrow temperature range and small changes can make more of a difference. With fork oil (or hydraulic fluid) there are 2 things to care about. Well that is what should be on the bottle. The viscosity index (VI) and Saybolt Universal Seconds (SUS). The latter is what most care about, or should as it is more sensitive, when tuning a suspension (or again, should) and the VI is something that applies to all oils. The VI range on engine and gear oils is narrow (by design). Then both are used at temperatures beyond what a fork oils needs and that is where sensitivity and the SUS rating is more important than the VI. Or rather than the VI focus on the 40C measurement and not the 100C. Check out: http://home.att.net/~dirt.tech/susp-oil.htm It lists in the 40C VI measurement (centiStokes) and wish it had the SUS as well, which is around 150 for 10wt engine or 75w gear oils. Note some are listed as fork and shock (the 100C VI test is what matters there) oils. All tech stuff aside the site gives an idea of what you might want to try when tuning your ride. That is if you care to bother. Also worth mention is the VI is higher when the difference is less. Go by that alone and the results might be very different. Well when you think of using another oil (gear or engine) or even hydraulic fluid or ATF for that matter there is quite a difference in what is added. Also mind the ATF's VI can vary widely from bottle to bottle. As mentioned there are anti-foaming additives (or should I say more). Molybdenum disulfide is common and a lot more than one can use in automotive oil. Not that some isn't found in EC oils and why our clutches do not like it. You do no need the detergents in automotive oil. Neither does gear oil where anti-foaming agents need not work harder (yes, the "detergent" in automotive oil does foam). Now I think I just stop. Or at least get more practical. And you thought engine oil was a headache... Given a choice what you use should be in order would fork oil, gear oil, or a straight engine oil (10wt). OK the gear oil should be straight as well. While ATF works fine, the VI can vary from bottle to bottle and I mean that literally. Brand, rating, etc. matter little and unless you know they came from the same lot you never know just how different it will be. Sure you buy 2 bottles, one for now and one for the next, and they might vary being from different lots. Unless you open a case to avoid the shell (or is that "shelf") game. Also along with hydraulic fluid they are paint eaters. With the accents (ie areas of black paint or polished/tooled metal) on my wheels, what happens when draining might matter. It's bad enough getting fork oil on the rubber. Then what about when the caps are removed to fill. Otherwise it's good for the use and in some ways better than gear oil. Then gear oil has other stuff better for use in forks that is lacking in ATF. Gosh, sounds like use the right oil for the purpose. ;) OK, so it could be fork, ATF, gear, then straight engine oil. One might need to adjust the amount used with ATF depending on if it's light or heavy. Or just deal with the change, which unless it's extreme, one could ignore it. Then it's fresh, so there will be a difference and one will grow used to it. It's possible synthetic ATF will be more consistent and might be good for those looking for a "heavier" oil in the forks. Then it's only a bit higher than the Spectro 10wt fork oil I've been using. I've thought about using a slightly lighter fork oil. Just never give it much thought or at least when I'm changing it. And I've avoided this discussion under the "just use fork oil" guise. Mainly the problem is the qualitative and not quantitative nature of the information available and the fact that ride quality matter more than the numbers from any test. Though they can be used a guide for making a change. 8-) As for an opinion. I think Redline Medium might be worth a try. Synthetic, high VI with a lower 40C cSt number. * Why is fork oil a funny color? Some makers color code their fork oils by weight. If your forks don't have adjustable damping (most don't), using different oil weights is the only way you have to tune your fork damping. 'Heavier' (thicker) weight oil damps more than 'lighter' (thinner) oil. Higher number = Heavier/thicker. Unfortunately, the makers don't use the same color codes. Arizona Steve found green 7wt oil at a dirt bike shop. Jeff "The Mountin Man" Mountin found: For Spectro the colors are: 5w - Yellow 10w - Blue 15w - Red 20w - Purple Change to Maxima and it's: 5w - Green 7w - Blue 10w - Clear 15w - Orange Jeff adds: [M]any of them use molybdenum disulfide, which you can see when draining. It's the black suspended particles that look like streaks with how small they are. They flow like a river in a river. Might make black the only common color. ;) * What sparkplugs should I use in XJ? Yamaha installed NGK plugs at the factory and most listizens continue to use them. A key for deciphering NGK numbers is at: http://www.i-op.com/jimm/NGK-partnumberkey.pdf And this FAQ from NGK's site explains what the heat rating means: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqheatrange.asp As for which NGK plugs, most XJs use BP7ES, but there are some models (700s, X's & turbos) that use other plugs. There should be a sticker on the bike somewhere that tells you. It's also on the XJCD. * What is the XJ Relay? The XJ-Relay brought together XJ owners all around the world by passing 'The Bag' from member to member. The XJ-Relay has been completed, but you'll still hear about it from time to time on the list. From the XJ-Relay site: Our Mission: Make our virtual connections real, get to know each other a bit better, and have fun, using the Internet to cooperate in sending a care package around the world aboard our beloved XJ Series motorcycles. See: http://www.mts.net/~mwiniar1/xjrelay.htm * What is 'The Bag'? See "What is the XJ Relay?". * What is the XJ CD and where can I get it? Listizens Brad Bowen, Dave Jackson, Dwayne Verhey & Wm. Vining have created a CD-ROM (usable on Windoze, Mac & Unix) containing *lots* of info, pictures and parts diagrams for XJs. They are selling them for a very low price to anyone who wants one. All profits are being donated to XJ Relay Fund. For ordering information, see: http://members.tripod.com/dave_jack/id47_xjcd.htm Here's the scoop from the source: Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:57:01 -0700 From: "D. Verhey" Subject: re: XJ CD (long) Brad gave you the link, but I will expand a bit on the content: The original concept was to collect parts diagrams for all XJ's to facilitate cross-referencing. Want to know if second gear from a 900 will fit a 650? Look them up on the CD and compare part numbers. By the time Version 1 was out, it included a model code guide showing serial number ranges, etc., a selection of tech tips, magazine articals of the day, pictures of various members' machines, and so forth. A good reference, but it wasn't all it could be. The (original) three of us live in North America, and we have very little access to information about models shipped elsewhere in the world. There were many models we had no parts diagrams for. The CD was a collection of files, organized into directories, but with no menu system. And many members of this list looked at the pretty pictures of parts with no clue as to going about replacing them. We knew at the time that we wanted more than we had, but the concensus was we had enough to be of great use to the majority of list members and people trying to fix their bikes now just couldn't wait another year. So, before Version 1.0 was even released, Version 2.0 was being planned. Wm. Vining moved on to other things, but Dave Jackson (already a big contributor to version 1) joined the team, bringing with him access to information on Austral-Asian models. The original CD, about 1/2 full, has doubled in size with more models covered, more pictures and more tech tips added. Many of these tips were extracted from this list -- stuff people said "this is so usefull it should be on the CD". Many more were extracted from the net -- and yes, I have a folder full of permissions to use copyrighted materials from the various authors. Some articals were written expressly for the CD -- they're not available anywhere else. A lot of creative editing was required to squeeze it all onto a single CD. But just like a K-tel commercial, that's not all you get! It's a two CD set. Manuals for these old bikes are as rare as hen's teeth. Periodically, Yamaha will photocopy off a run of manuals for a particular model if they have enough orders stacked up waiting. That means it often takes months to get a manual out of them. Volume 2 eliminates the wait. It contains all the information required to service and repair almost any model XJ except the European 400's. The second CD is also almost completely full. Now, those familiar with Version 1 may tell you that navigating the files could be a little intimidating. The menu system consisted soley of your native OS file management system. So we've organized it all with a system of HTML pages and indices, giving it a smoother polished look. Is it complete now? Probably not. Only parts of the 750 Injection model info have been translated to English. We would dearly love to get service and parts info for the XJ400's. Similarly, it lacks parts diagrams for the 600 and 900 Diversions. And I have a couple of ideas for some more articals. But as with Version 1, we don't know at this time if we will ever get our hands on that stuff. What we have now is gold -- but at the low low price of only US$10.00! As regular readers of this list already know, we have each laid out $$$ to gather this info. Much more was contributed by other members. Additionally, there are production costs -- cd's, lables, sleeves, padded mailers, postage, etc. The price is approximately the same for all world-wide, and is all-inclusive -- there are no additional charges for shipping and handling etc. Nevertheless, based on the sales of Version 1, we expect to recoup all expenses and more. We don't keep any profits. Any additional funds raised will be donated to a group cause. The XJ World Relay is our current beneficiary, but there were some suggestions that perhaps we should also make a group donation to micapeak, Carl's listserver that links us all together. Hope this answers your questions. Now get out your wallet... ;-) tafn dv * How do I clean my carburetors? Many of the problems that occur after a motorcycle has sat for some time are the result of dirty carburetors. Carb cleaning seems to be a major pastime for many listizens. :-) It's a good idea to try using Seafoam first, however, as it can sometimes take care of it without having to pull the carbs. It is recommended that you get a service manual for your bike before taking things apart, however. Haynes makes a service manual for "Yamaha XJ650 & 750 Fours 1980 to 1984". You can also get the official Yamaha service manual for your particular model. One of the sources on how to do this is an excellent tutorial by Dwayne Verhey at: http://www.slygrin.net/xj750/pages/carbs.htm This tutorial shows specifically Hitachi carbs, the kind that most XJs have. * How do I deal with a rusty gas tank? Step one is to remove the rust. Some people then choose to line their gas tanks, but most listizens seem to consider this unnecessary. Keeping the tank full (to keep condensation out) and running it down regularly (to avoid water settling out of the fuel and to the bottom of the tank) is sufficient most of the time. Most listizens who have used liners seem to prefer POR-15 (from http://www.porcan.com) over Kreem brand (widely available). Here is a chemical rust removal technique from the web site: http://www.captain.norton.clara.net/cnn2sec41.html From: Espen Olsen Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 16:01:34 +0200 1: No welder will even touch the tank if it's been lined. This is for me no.1 reason not to use tank liners. You never know if you'll need to weld the tank some time in the future. The reason is that minor amounts of petrol will be trapped under the lining. This is impossible to remove and imagine the effect upon welding. 2: There is no reason not to use the old-fashioned brit-iron way of derusting. This involves using an acidic solution to remove the rust. I enclose the info given to me some years back below. This will remove the rust and stabilize the surface, preventing it from rusting in the foreseeable future. The acid treatment is OK, but even better is Wrangl solution, used here in this lab (corrosion lab) to remove oxides from steel: 1000 ml HCl ,specific gravity: 1.19 20 g Sb2O3 Antimony Oxide 50 g SnCl4 Stannous Chloride Throw a bunch of old nuts and bolts into the tank, pour in the solution, and shake the tank vigorously for 1-25 min at 20-25 C. The data is taken from ASTM, treatment designation C.3.1. Rinse out with *lots* of water, alternatively one second treatment with 2 spoons baking soda in water. The chemicals are not toxic in diluted quantities and may be aquired at the chemist, but do not drink the stuff. Standard precations when working with acids is needed, as it is when using KREEM and other treatments too. Put in gasoline as soon as possible after cleaning and go for a ride. In contrast, this is an electro-chemical technique. A discussion of how and why it works is interesting, but be beyond the scope of this document. :-) Dwayne Verhey writes: Here's a repost of a method I used quite successfully. There's no dangerous chemicals to spill; a consideration for me since I: a) live on a lake, and b) drink from a well. There's also no ball bearings or nuts to recover afterwards. You need a 10 amp battery charger, duct tape, a box of salt, water, a funnel, a piece of steel rod, electrical tape, methyl hydrate and light oil. I adapted it from a technique used by antique outboard restorers: Prep the tank by removing the petcock and gauge sender, clean the paint work around the holes well, and cover the holes with duct tape. Stuff rags inside the hump to re-inforce the duct tape over the sender holes. Pre-mix the saline electrolyte using most of a box of table salt to 5 gallons of water, and fill the tank. Tape up the end of a steel rod (I was told re-bar, but used all-thread ready rod which worked just fine) so it cannot short out against the tank bottom. Connect the negative lead of a 10 amp battery charger to bare metal on the tank (I used the gas cap mounting screw so as not to damage any paint). Place a wide-mouth plastic (non-conducting) funnel in the fill hole and put the rod in the tank through the funnel. Connect the positive lead to the electrode. It's best to use a charger with an ammeter. Mine just has a silly voltmeter gauge, so I connected the positive lead through a separate ammeter. Add salt as required to bring the current up to 10 amps. (The best I got was 9.4 amps, more salt didn't help after that). Check every 2 minutes, and stop when the rust is gone. (It got so murky, I couldn't see the hump after a while unless I sloshed out some of the water and tipped the tank. I don't know how they do this with a marine tank and still check it ;-) Total time for me on this tank was about 10 minutes. I was amazed at the results. Where there was heavy rusting, clean shiny metal magically appeared. I used a piece of cad-plated ready-rod for the electrode, and it turned black. The saline turned a weird shade of green, with chunks of rust floating around. I was concerned that the left half of the tank wouldn't get equal treatment, and I made a point of draining off some water and sloshing it around to evenly distribute the salt, and an examination through the fuel gauge hole confirms it worked on that side too. None the less, I think next time I would start off with a saline solution instead of plain water, now that I know how much salt to use (just about 1 box to get 9.4 amps). I also blew a fuse in my ammeter when I inadvertently touched the rod against the hump in the middle of the tank trying to stir the salt with the electrode. I guess with a motorcycle tank, not only the bottom of the rod should be insulated with electrical tape, but part way up where it might contact the hump as well. I flushed everything out thoroughly with water after, followed with methyl hydrate. Even so, I could see a faint patina of rust starting to form again within 15 minutes. I quickly coated the inside with oil, and that took care of that. tafn dv * What is YICS? Yamaha Induction Control System. Most XJs (and many other model Yamahas) use it. Essentially, YICS means that there are passages or tubes connected the intake of all cylinders together. In the inline four XJs, it's a passage (also called a 'gallery') in the block located just below the intake passages connecting all four intakes together via small air passages. It is reputed to make a difference -- some owners of other types of motorcycles make their own 'YICS' by connecting the intakes with tubing. Also, when unblocked (after synchronizing) the idle will usually increase slightly. YICS would be nothing but a rather esoteric feature if it weren't for the impact it has on carburetor synchronization. Yamaha (and most listizens) recommend "blocking off" the YICS passages when synchronizing carburetors and adjusting idle mixtures. The tool for blocking the YICS passage can be bought from Yamaha for big bucks. Or you can make your own for a couple bucks (instructions at: http://home.westman.wave.ca/~jbe/YICS.htm or search Google for YICS tool). Mike Oberle is now selling his YICS/R 'reproduction tool', which closely resembles the Yamaha version, but at a considerably more reasonable $30 price. See: http://plan9.dnsalias.org:88/xj/products/YICS-R.html * I'm having electrical problems... See Aaron Berg's excellent site at: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/7795/ * Can I add driving lights, or other electrical accessories? Greg Martin writes: Althought the general answer is yes, you must take caution as the generator on these bikes isn't that big. Unless you're spending long periods at high RPM's, sticking to less than 100 Watts of extra lighting or things is probably a good idea. For driving or fog lights, there are 30 Watt bulb options. * Can I fix my TCI unit (Cold Solder Joints)? The TCI (Transistor Control Ignition) unit is a fairly common source of ignition problems. Many times those problems are caused by the connections in the TCI failing. (These are known as "cold solder joints" because the soldered joint has failed is now "cold".) Dave Jackson (of the Kiwi contingent :-) has put together a page showing how to find and correct those bad connections. http://members.tripod.com/dave_jack/id50.htm * Where can I get parts/accessories? Some online sites recommended by listizens: http://www.zanottimotor.com/ http://www.accwhse.com/ http://www.jcwhitney.com/ http://www.denniskirk.com * What does SWMBO/YMMV/tafn/etc mean? SWMBO -- She Who Must Be Obeyed YMMV -- Your Mileage May Vary (generically, it might not work the same for you) tafn -- That's All For Now LOL -- Laughs(-ing) Out Loud LMAO -- Laughing My Arse Off ROTFL -- Rolling On The Floor Laughing NOS -- New Old Stock (and many variants) * Where can I get a back rest for my (usually) Maxim 700? "Good luck, there are none available." (Richard Baxter) They are extremely rare and quite expensive when they do come up. For instance, a 700X back rest on eBay (which is, I believe, the same as all XJ700 back rests) went for $256.99 on June 3, 2001. * Where can I get a (left|right) side cover for my Maxim? The right hand side cover for 80-83 Maxims are, for some reason, especially rare. Lefts are much more common. Many wreckers and parts places have lefts, but the best advice for finding rights seems to be eBay and patience. * What about powdercoating? Greg Martin writes: Powder coat (or powder painting) is an excellent alternative to conventional paint. The powder is electrostatically applied to the part, and baked on in an oven where liquefies, flows out, and bonds to the surface. Thus, it can help to cover up minor imperfections in the surface. However, only conductive metal parts can be powdercoated - no plastic or fibreglass. Powdercoating is slightly tougher than paint, mainly depending on the thickness of the layer. The powder comes in just about any colour, including a clear, and different compositions. Note that you are limited to matte or gloss finishes, and designs are right out. * What/Where is the second (middle gear) oil drain plug? The drive shaft has bevel gears on both ends. The final drive gear (at the wheel end of the shaft) has its own oil, the "Final Gear Oil"; which needs to be replaced periodically. On most XJ bikes the middle gear (at the engine end of the shaft) shares the engine oil rather than having it's own oil. (One exception is the 82 XJ1100J which is reported to have a separate middle gear oil reserve which uses Hypoid Gear oil like the final drive gear.) However, the middle gear does have a small sump (or depression) that holds oil around/under it. In addition to the main oil pan drain most (all?) XJs also have a second oil drain in this sump. Many XJ owners have had problems finding it. Some listizens maintain that the middle gear sump *must* also be drained periodically (as part of an oil change), otherwise the oil around the middle gear will never be refreshed. Other listizens believe that the oil in the middle gear sump will be mixed with the fresh oil when it's changed and that the small amount of dirty oil left in the sump is negligible. They believe that the middle gear drain exists primary to allow one to completely drain the engine before splitting the cases. Like disabling the side stand switch, this is one we've agreed to disagree on. * Is there a way to add a 6th gear or change the 5th gear to an overdrive? To date, we don't know of anyone who has done it. Jeff "The Mountin Man" Mountin addressed many of the issues in this: Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 12:07:42 -0700 From: The Mountin Man To: Yamaha XJ owners discussion Subject: Re: Gear sets for XJ transmission At 09:16 AM 9/23/01 -0700, Jeff Hiley wrote to Jack Williams: >I would completely agree with the RPM issue. I just wanted some >way of increasing the millage for longer trips. >At 06:54 AM 09/23/01 -0700, you wrote: > >I don't see any reason a qualified machinist couldn't make one, > >but why? at 6K rpms you are just entering the machines > >powerband and the motor is working at peak efficiency. Remember > >that these motors were designed to run at those higher > >revolutions. The question really should be how far the gears can be reduced to improve the mileage and at what point would it no longer be beneficial. If a larger change in 5th would be advantageous, then a small change to 4th gear would be required to avoid a wide ratio change. Around town this would help. More so in the case of an X where the power drops off below 3000 and the taller 5th (by 25%) would mean the ideal 4-5 shift while cruising would be from 5500 at about 60 mph for 3600 in 5th. Too large, but then I would only need turn 4200 rpm @70 mph rather than 5600. And I move faster than that or risk being stampeded by the majority of drivers doing 20 over. Have said this before. The gearing is designed for around town and will allow you to go through all gears with the revs never going above 4000 (4400 in 1st) or below 3000 up to 50 mph. Here is a chart with the reduction of each gear compared to the lower gear before it and the speed in mph @10,000: 1st - NA 48 2nd - 68.57 69 3rd - 76.92 91 4th - 80.89 112 5th - 87.05 129 Now a 25% might reduction might be a bit much and would require a change to 4th as well. Going from a 26/32 to a 24/34 (15%) would fit perfectly with the 3-4K range described before. It would result in the 4-5 shirt to be like the 2-3 shift in the chart. Rather than doing 70@5500 one could do 80@5500. I of all people need not be reminded they will happily turn high revs for hours on end. Another thing about long trips is the whine at higher revs will fatigue you after a time and sooner. If you are not inclined to try doing 100 mph for a while, then just cruise on the freeway in 3rd gear and forget you have a 4th and 5th gear between 60 and 70 mph. While you are at it why not fill up the tank real close to the freeway, get on, stay in 3rd, keep a steady speed of 70 mph for 10 miles, turn around and do another 10 miles, fill up and record the mileage, then do the same thing at 70 mph in 5th gear and compare the mileage. You then have an idea of the effect of a 25% reducion in 5th. To compare a 13% (close enough to 15%) do the same in 4th gear. Peak efficiency is a bit of a loaded term. Might not explain this right, but will try. I'm sure at least a few here know that it only takes a small fraction of the power generated by an engine to maintain a vehicle at a given speed. Some engineers capitalized on this by cutting the injection and ignition to a number of cylinders while cruising on the freeway at a steady speed and load. Say we use dyno and a sensor to check the flow of fuel to find how much flow is required for a given speed. At the same time we also find out how much power is produced. Surely more fuel is need to run the engine at a higher RPM. Pure engine efficiency could be calculated by dividing the power produced by the rate of fuel consumption. This is the purest example of engine efficiency, since we don't even factor speed, nor does it apply to the real world where wind resistance increases geometrically in relation to speed. Still there is no way you can tell me that I need to turn higher revs or that lower revs would not produce more than enough power to maintain a given speed. Going with too low of a ratio will make it more sluggish at higher speeds (less reserve power to accelerate), then one could also kick down to 4th (say it's the same ratio as 5th is stock, which would mean 4th is 70.4% the ratio of 3rd in the chart) if more punch is needed. Other factors would need to be considered, such as riding into the wind or climbing hills. Too little reserve power and more throttle will be required, the engine might wallow, and mileage will drop drastically compared to requiring a smaller twist of the wrist. The trick is finding out if a 25% reduction in 5th and moving 5th to 4th would work well in the real world. Another thing is how many would need a drastic reduction. Just changing 5th by 10-15% would be ideal for those that do a fair bit of riding at freeway speeds (freeway optional) without changing the acceleration of the first 4 gears. One could even say that the first 3 a good for someone that like to go rip roaring up to almost 100 mph. Changing 4th gear would affect the 1/4 mile time, but 5th gear isn't needed for a run. No matter this is just an idea. Do think I've thought of all the angles. Not quite sure I'd want to replace 4th with 5th (the ratio - doubt the gears will swap), but then someone that does very little around town riding might be interested. There is no way I'd even start on such a project without having at least a dyno run or preferable talk with a mechanic, engineer, or rider that has dealt with gear set changes. Sprocket changes are not the same, as they affect all gears and I enjoy the results had with the first 3 gears to even think of changing the ring gear. 8-) Almost forgot, tinkering with the gears might result in horrible shifting. Then it also might be possible to make things smoother. Another stumbling block might be that it's not possible to swap the 5th gear of a shaft drive with the 5th or 6th gear from a chain drive. An entire gearset might need to be swapped. Then I would not mind a close ratio, provided it's a 6spd. ;) Oh, the 5 to 6 spd is possible, but the cost is more than the blue book value. Surely lower if I did most of the work. Jeff "The Mountin Man" - '86 MaximX * What is a Colortune? The Colortune(or Colourtune) is diagnostic tool made by Gunson. From one of the marketing blurbs: Take the guesswork out of engine tuning with Gunson's Colortune, the world famous glass topped spark plug that gives you a window into the combustion chamber so you can see the flame. Why is this important? The flame's color tells you the richness of the air/fuel ratio. A yellow flame means a rich mixture and a blue flame a weaker mixture. A blueish white flame is spot on. Colortune is so damn simple that anyone can use it. Colortune is unaffected by ambient weather conditions because it works on the law of physics that certain fuel mixtures burn with a certain color. The perfect night time activity. So stop reading plugs and start tuning by color. Many (if not most) of the 'wrench it yourself' types on the list use the Colortune for setting the idle adjustment screws and swear by them. It is, as the blurb says, a spark plug that has a mica glass window in it so you can see the color of the combustion flame while the engine is running. You generally buy only one and move it from cylinder to cylinder, adjusting each carb individually. It comes with some plastic pieces to shade it (it's very difficult to see the flame in sun light; shade or night time recommended), which are reported to melt if left in contact with the engine for more than a short time. Colortunes come in more than one flavor, the original 14mm diameter size and now 10mm, 12mm or 14mm 'Motorcycle' versions. There are also adapters available to convert the 14mm to 10mm, 12mm, 14mm long, & 18mm. Most XJs use 14mm diameter sparkplugs. If the NGK plug number called for starts with B, you need a 14mm. The X and the turbo (possibly others?) that call for NGK plug number beginning with D use 12mm plugs. You'll need either the 12mm motorcycle version or and adaptor. There are now many places online where the Colortune is sold, usually between US$40 and US$60. Consult the search engine of choice. :-) Gunson's own web site is: http://www.gunson.co.uk Dwayne Verhey has a nice page with some pictures you can see at: http://www.surenet.net/~verhey/colourtune/Intro.htm * Do I need the Motorcycle specific Colortune? Gunson says that the motorcycle version difference is: - So compact that it virtually guarantees the compression ratio of even the smallest cylinder. - New "Nilo 48" electrode for higher heat range. Both the standard and motorcycle Colortunes are mostly hollow and increase the size of the combustion chamber by a couple cc's and therefore lowers the compression ratio slightly. The motorcycle one just does it a bit less. As for heat range, you typically don't leave the Colortune in very long anyway. The short version: Listizens were using the standard one long before Gunson started making a 'motorcycle' version and the standard model is usually a little cheaper. If you don't care about the ~US$10 difference, get the motorcycle one. If you do care, get the standard. Either is waaaay better than doing without. * Can I fix my cracked carb boots? The intake 'boots' (the rubber pieces between the carbs and the engine) are prone to cracking after 20 odd years. Scott Jalbert writes: The intake boots do seem to cause some problems on the list and they seem to run about a hundred dollars US for replacements (or more). Fortunately if yours are just cracked you could just take them off the bike and rub in some RTV(Room Temperature Vulcanizer) as has been suggested on the list here numerous times. If they are really bad you can put an inner tube of the right size over the RTV and they will look new with no leaks. I just saw a set go by on eBay a couple days ago so keep an eye out if you want to replace them. They went for about $105 I think. * What are the three settings on my fuel petcock for? Which one should I be using? Most XJs have a three position, vacuum actuated petcock. Clifford Flath explains: ON is the off you are looking for. ON only allows fuel to flow when there is vacuum on one of the intake boots. When you run out of fuel in the ON position, switch to RES for a bit more fuel. PRI allows fuel to flow even when there's no vacuum. Use this only if you are starting with empty carburetors bowls. To prevent fuel leaks, never leave it in PRI after starting. * How do I get the bike up on the center stand? Dean Rachwitz writes: Ooh! Ooh! I know this one! :-) Stand on the left side of the bike, grasping the handlebar with your left hand and the grab rail that's under the left side of the seat. Place your right foot on the centerstand and push it down until it touches the ground. Reposition yourself slightly so that you can place all of your weight on the centerstand. Here's the key: You don't have to lift much with your right hand, most of the work is accomplished by pushing down with your right foot. So, push down on the centerstand with all of your weight while pulling up with your right hand on the grab rail. If you do it right, even small guys can get big bikes on the centerstand. Good luck! * How do I replace my sparkplug wires? The ever knowledgeable Dwayne Verhey writes: Go to my website (www.surenet.net/~verhey) and look at the two links "How to Replace Stock Yamaha Ignition Wires" and "Replacing Ignition Wires on a MaximX Coil". Consider changing the sparkplug boots too. NGK calls them "sparkplug resistor covers". 2 of LB05FP and 2 of VB05FP are required. ======================= Contributors: Jim Miller Jim W. Smith Jeff Rivers Richard Baxter Dwayne Verhey Greg Martin Steve Solomon Jeff "The Mountin Man" Mountin Michael Brambley Timothy L Weltz Brian Spilsbury Steve C Todd Hildebrand Scott Jalbert Clifford Flath Dean Rachwitz Arizona Steve